Archive for 'cats Magazin'

article on Bronze Egyptian Mau by Peter Chamberlain

 

 a big thank you to Peter of

(Geniemau cattery)

for allowing us to publish his  article onbronze Egyptian Mau

please read here

Article from Melanie Morgan and the GEMS

a new article on Egyptian Mau in all color has been published on our website

please go here to read it

Slide109

un nouvel article  sur le Mau Egyptien sous toutes ses couleurs a été

ajouté sur notre site.

Taper  ICI

pour pouvoir le lire , merci

How to Read a Pet Food Label

Finding the best food is vital to your pet’s health and longevity. But deciphering pet food labels can be confusing. Follow these steps to be able to understand pet food labels and be able to compare pet products with confidence.

Steps

  1. Learn to look beyond the marketing claims accompanying pet food. In the USA, pet food labeling is regulated on a federal (FDA) and state-by-state basis, with guidance from the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). However, AAFCO provides only minimum requirements. The reality is that pet food producers often use terms that are undefined by the regulations, in order to communicate more effectively with consumers and improve their product’s image in the market. The AAFCO warns on their website that “it is not rare at all that labeling and marketing information is designed to appeal to the latest trend in marketing human products.” In other words, the focus tends to be more on appealing to our preferences than on whether or not the food is suitable for your pet. For this reason, learn to look behind the marketing hype and to find the real substance of the nutrition status within the pet food.
  • It is important to always check the ingredient list because a named food is not always necessarily the primary ingredient.
  • Locate the “Guaranteed Analysis” on the pet food label. See the example under “Tips” below. Note that the percentages given for protein, fat, and fiber are measurements of the food in its current state. However, because different pet foods have different levels of moisture, you can only logically compare pet foods on a dry matter basis. Moisture levels in pet foods can range from approximately 6 percent to as much as 80 percent. Canned food obviously contains more moisture than dry kibble. But it may not necessarily contain as much protein, for example. You can’t tell which food contains the most protein, fat or fiber until you have converted both labels to a dry matter basis.
    • Determine the amount of dry matter first, by subtracting the percentage given for moisture from 100 percent. Using the example below, the moisture accounts for 10 percent of the pet food. Therefore, the dry matter content is (100% – 10% = ) 90% of the pet food.
    • Convert the protein, fat and fiber percentages to a dry matter basis by dividing the percentages given on the label by the amount of dry matter (from the previous step). In our example, the 26 percent protein on the label converts to 28 percent on a dry matter basis by dividing 26% by 90%. (Notice that in this example the dry matter calculation is only slightly different than the labeled percentage. This is because the moisture level was only 10 percent per the label. If the moisture level had been, say, 40 percent, then the dry matter content would have only been 60 percent and protein on a dry matter basis would have been calculated as (26% divided by 60% =) 43%.)
    • Compare the new protein level of 28 percent on a dry matter basis to other pet foods (once you’ve converted the other pet food labels in the same way). Do similar comparisons for fat and fiber after converting to a dry matter basis calculation.
  • Be aware that percentages alone don’t tell the whole story. You may have 28 percent protein on a dry matter basis, but what is the source of that protein? You can get protein from chicken beaks and feet that are not good sources of nutrition for your pet! This means that you’ll need to look next at the list of ingredients. Pet foods must list ingredients in order of weight. Generally, the first five ingredients will make up the majority of the pet food product. Ideally, look for meat as one of the first ingredients on a pet food label. Grains, such as corn, corn meal, whole wheat, barley, rice are used to provide essential energy for the pet and appealing texture to the kibble.
    • Even the AAFCO website admits that “Economics plays a part in any ingredient selection” and “protein is not simply protein. Ingredients providing protein have specific amino acids which may or may not match the amino acid profile required by a cat or a dog.” Manufacturers routinely combine multiple protein sources to provide for all the amino acids required for a healthy life.
  • Be mindful that pet food manufacturers can manipulate this information. For example, by breaking an ingredient down into components and then listing them individually so that you don’t notice a easily recognized undesirable ingredient too near the top of the list, this information can be effectively changed enough to cause you to read the label differently.
  • Some pet owners search for pet foods that use human grade ingredients with no animal by-products and avoid pet foods that use artificial colors, flavors, sugars and chemical preservatives (notably BHA and BHT). However, some animal by-products like liver and other internal organs are excellent sources of the amino acids and other nutrients that dogs and cats need. In addition, dry pet foods need preservatives to prevent spoilage and degradation of essential nutrients.
    • Contact the manufacturer direct to find out what the “by-products” listed in their product actually consist of. Be aware that this may change without warning. Sometimes your pet’s reaction will be enough to make this obvious!
  • Do a cost per weight analysis to determine the weight value of the pet food product. The density of dry products can be changed through puffing up the food, while different wet foods can be labeled with pounds or ounces (or other measurements), making weight comparison harder. Check the price comparison to get the real value.
  • Check the label for “nutritional adequacy”. This is one of the most important aspects of a pet food label because it can impact a pet’s health if claims are made about being nutritionally complete when the product is not able to meet all nutrient requirements for your pet. To be reassured on this count, look for:
    • The words: “(Name of product) is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO (Dog/Cat) Food Nutrient Profiles.”
    • Or look for the words: “Animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures substantiate that (name of product) provides complete and balanced nutrition.”
    • Be sure to choose the right life cycle stage for your pet – this should be on the label too (for example, kitten/puppy). Pet food needed for pets that are growing, reproducing or working hard should be chosen with care that it can meet all the nutrient requirements for that pet. Size, breed or senior labeling claims must meet the criteria for adequate adult pet nutritional needs; in reality, the more precise claims are harder to ascertain.
  • Read the feeding instructions. Even if you think you know how to feed your pet the particular product, changes do happen or you might have transposed feeding instructions from one product to a new one. Always read these with care to ensure that you are feeding your pet adequately. However, even though manufacturers try to cover all contingencies, you still need to monitor your own pet’s needs, preferences and environmental conditions. Talk to your vet if you’re unsure, especially with respect to growing and reproducing pets.
    • As part of feeding, also read the calories provided by the product. The amount of calories provided can vary considerably between products and between dry and wet foods. If your pet is growing, overweight or underweight, or has an illness, calories are of especial interest.
    • Calorie statements are made on a “kilocalories per kilogram” basis. Kilocalories are the same as the “Calories”, while a “kilogram” is a unit of metric measurement equal to 2.2 pounds. It may also be stated as “per cup” or “per can”, alongside the required kilocalories per kilogram statement.
  • Be savvy about marketing claims such as natural, organic, premium, etc. These are marketing words without official definitions to back them up. While it is surely to be hoped that all pet food is “natural”, this usually refers to a lack of artificial additives, colors or flavors. The words “premium” and “gourmet” and the like are marketing speak and don’t mean anything more than what the overall packaging suggests to the consumer. Organic pet food should be free of synthetic additives but guidelines are still under development for the official meanings.

Tips

  • GUARANTEED ANALYSIS:
  • Crude Fiber, not more than………………4.0%
  • Moisture, not more than……………….10.0%
  • Be aware that actual meat may not have to be added to a pet food to produce a “flavor”. For example, a chicken flavor can be produced using a “chicken digest” (such as heat treatment or the addition of enzymes or acids), while a real chicken hasn’t been anywhere near the resulting product. Also be aware that claims of “no artificial flavors” are often marketing hype as few pet foods include such flavoring.
  • Crude Fat, not less than……………….16.0%
  • Crude Protein, not less than……….….26.0%
  • Here’s an example of the guaranteed analysis section of a pet food label:

Warnings

  • Do not feed cat food to dogs and vice versa. Each species has different nutritional requirements, which the pet food manufacturers cater for.

Things You’ll Need

  • Labels
  • Something to magnify print if needed (the print can be extremely fine)

Sources and Citations

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Read a Pet Food Label. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

How to Have Multiple Cats

Here’s how to manage to have more than one inside cat with no smell or mess. Be sure that you live somewhere that permits multiple cats as many buildings and even local municipalities have rules on how many cats you can keep (especially within city limits).

Steps

  1. Make their litter boxes easily accessible. Put a litter box in as many rooms as you can, according to your cats’ social life. If you need to, hide them under furniture, tables, etc., so that the cats can find them easily but people can’t readily see.
  2. Find hard-to-please cats a space of their own. If you have picky cats, or cats that are not using the litter box, get them accustomed to a room that the other cats can’t go into. A separate area with the cats personal litter, food and water might help with this.
  3. Make sure you can afford the upkeep of the number of cats you have. Where a 5 pound (2.3 kilogram) bag of food might last a single cat two months, 10 or more cats will go through it in a week. There is also the cost of veterinary care to be considered…routine immunizations as well as illness and/or injury situations.
  4. Neuter or spay your cats. Without fail, get every single cat you have spayed or neutered, especially the females. This is especially important if you have cats of both genders in the same house!
  5. Make sure to alert everybody you invite into your house about the cats! Some people may be allergic, and some people are downright afraid of cats. There are also those who don’t like cats. Cats will sense this and some may play up.
  6. Remove cat waste frequently, at least once daily. Scoopable cat litter makes it easier to scoop up cat waste without having to remove all the litter. Add more litter as needed. If you wish to wash the litter box, do not use bleach! Cats have a very keen sense of smell and may not use their box once bleach is used, and bleach fumes are not good for your cat’s sensitive respiratory system. Instead, wash the litter box in hot, soapy water and rinse well. You could also spritz vinegar into the box and let it set for at least two minutes. This will help get rid of odor and disease causing bacteria. Make sure you rinse with water and dry the box, before finishing with clean litter.

Tips

  • Once you get more than two cats (sometimes three if you’re lucky), there will likely be problem between two or more of them. Be prepared with water guns/spray bottles if there’s a standoff.
  • If you have other animals, be sure they get along and you are there to observe any challenging behaviors. Never leave a cat unattended with animals such as fish, birds or rodents.
  • Pay attention to each cat’s behavior. When behaviors are unwanted, you can usually start off by finding the source and than a solution. Remember cats can’t change the fact that they must scratch, require a clean litter box, and need some form of amusement. If you don’t provide toys, don’t expect them not to use something of yours, (like shredding the toilet paper).
  • Be sure to take your cats to the vet at least once a year, if one gets sick they may all become infected.
  • You can use them to safely and humanely encourage cats off counters, Christmas trees, and other places you don’t want them. Do not spray at the cat directly, but right next to the cat.
  • Bicarbonate of soda is great for removing smells. Line the litter trays with it; clean up messes like fur-ball vomit off the carpet using it; clean out litter trays by scrubbing with it.

Warnings

  • Used litter can be very toxic, especially to pregnant women, children, and the elderly.
  • Cat bites can get infected badly, and, depending on the cat, very easily. This goes for both humans and other animals.
  • There are many plants and chemicals that are toxic to cats. Ask your vet if you are bringing a plant home and aren’t sure if it is toxic to your cats.
  • As tempting as it may be to not have to clean the litter box and buy an automatic-cleaning box, don’t do it. Where some cats will be fine with it, and you will have the mess off your hands, many cats are fearful of the automatic cleaning box, or may not like the way it cleans. This can cause inappropriate elimination outside the litter box.
  • Give food proportionally to each cat because if you give a lot you will waste a lot of money and/or your cat(s) will become overweight.

Things You’ll Need

  • Most vets will tell you to have one litter box per cat, even if they like to share. At any point a cat may decide not to use a certain litter box, now you have other options for that cat.
  • A good cat guide to reference when you have concerns about your kitty room-mates.

Related wikiHows

Sources and Citations

  • www.vetcentric.com is a good site to visit if you have any medical questions about your cat.
  • www.lovethatcat.com is a helpful website if you are looking for books or videos dealing with cats.

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Have Multiple Cats. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

How to make your cat love you

So your cat hightails it every time you enter the room? Get scratched every time you try to pet her? You will find that the method suggested here works with most cats–even those who are complete strangers to you! Put some cat food on your hand and let the cat eat it. While the cat is eating the food stroke her/him fur softly.

Steps

  1. Kneel down low so that you’re the same height as the cat. That way he/she will be less intimidated and won’t be scared of you as much. Be calm and don’t make loud noises or the cat will get scared. Cats get frightened very easily! (eventually raise yourself so you don’t look like a freak)
  2. So you’re scared that the cat might scratch or bite you? Try wearing longer clothes for the first meeting. Then teach her that scratching and biting is wrong with a quick timed punishment. (A spray bottle works quite nicely, but do not hit your cat. you will loose the cat’s trust entirely if you do.) This will bring you respect.
  3. Let the cat come to you first. Ever wonder why a cat hangs around the “cat-haters”? This is because their not in their territory as soon as they see them. Read a book, watch TV, or just simply lie down in the mean time. It may take up to a few days for a cat to approach you.
  4. Stroke the cat softly on the forehead. Also tickle your cat under her/his chin. My cat loves that.
  5. Increase your social between you and the cat by stroking her, giving her treats and playing with her.Don’t be rough with the cat.
  6. Treat the cat with love and care.
  7. Be the one to feed her and clean her cat litter.
  8. Try not to raise your voice when near your cat; this will frighten her.
  9. The cat will bite if you disturb her while she is washing herself.
  10. Give your cat attention when necessary but not constantly (this would cause the cat to be needy and possibly bring in a violence streak when he/she does not get what they want).
  11. On specific days give your cat or kitten canned food, like tuna. Stroke her as he/she eats it.
  12. Never trap your cat in a room.

Tips

  • In the summer months, your cat will get hot. Be sure to keep her cool by using a fan or letting her play with an ice cube (kittens especially love ice cubes).
  • If possible let the cat approach you first. Put out your hand and let her sniff it before approaching her.
  • Talk soft around your cat.She/he will think it is being praised. If a cat hisses at you it means it wants to be left alone.
  • Cats love it when you massage their foreheads, tickle their chins, and stroke their backs.
  • If your cat hisses at you maybe you should leave the room and if you need to go in that room again go in but try not to look or play or fuss the cat , This shows them that your not forcing them to do any thing and they will get used to the house and soon come to you
  • If you get down on your knees, you are a lot less threatening to a cat.
  • Play with him/her as often as you can.
  • Let her be near you and bring a toy mouse out and let her smuggle it on your lap or infront of you and shake it.
  • If you think you need time (and I mean a lot of time) to train your cat into liking you, give them wet food. The food is very yummy and kitty will most likely love it (my 13yr old cat and my 8 month old cat both love it). And it moistens their system to keep then living longer.
  • If you pick up your cat too much, he/she will get very mad.

Warnings

  • Never force a cat to do anything.
  • After you get scratched by your cat, be sure to wash it thoroughly with hot water and Dettol. The scratches will start to disappear in 3 weeks.
  • Don’t stamp your foot near a cat. She will get frightened and run away.
  • Don’t squeeze your cat. He/she will remember that, too.
  • Don’t abuse your cat, like throwing or hitting.
  • Never hit your cat. It is abusive. Cats have a good memory for these deeds. Hitting your cat will make them associate you with fear and pain.
  • Never be nasty around a cat: in other words, don’t kick, scream or shout near or at her.

Things You’ll Need

  • Favorite toy or treat (optional, but highly recommended)
  • A well maintained home
  • food and treats
  • a bed
  • a place for them to play and escape

Related wikiHows

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Get Your Cat to Like You. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

the starting of the Maullenium Egyptian Mau lines

Very nice article featured on the Egyptian Mau in this months Showcats online

 about Dot Mardulier

As the world began a new century in the year 2000,Dot Mardulier  established Maullenium Egyptian Maus in a small town on Cape Cod, MA.

But she had first shown an Egyptian Mau in the Alter Class in CFA the year before.

The problem was that being a minority breed, Egyptian Maus struggled with having a smaller gene pool. Despite that, Dot enjoyed showing her Maus, but her passion for the breed’s survival was far greater than for showing. She understood that If she worked with imported bloodlines, she could help increase the diversity of the Mau gene pool in the US.

There was a price to be paid however. The Maus imported from Egypt were not the refined type seen in the US show rings.

click her to find out about one very special cat

video on Egyptian Mau & Nebelung

 here 2 links for you to watch 

one on

” Egyptian Mau”

and one on

“Nebelung”

We are on Facebook

“Chatterie Amiel-Goshen Cattery”

is also on Facebook 

link here

Cats Forum

“Chatterie Amiel-Goshen Cattery”

is on quite a few forum

please visit =

“Yummypets” (all about cats, dogs and other animals),

“Chapperlipopette” (all about cats),

A Maus doux (especially Egyptian Mau)Goshen Catterry”

Encyclopedia for cats

A very interesting book published by

Royal Canin 

giving us all the basic about cats,

History, mankind and cats, cat and their owners, knowing our cats,

and a resume on the main cat breed known today

please have look at this link

((there is an English edition as well as German etc, do not hesitate to contact them))

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